The former Khao San Road space has now been transformed into a Royal Thai dining room, with tons of gold/brass and jewel tones. We came around 5:30pm on a weeknight and were lucky to snag a spot at the bar, but reservations are recommended.   Roy Thai - royal Thai dumplings, $12/person for 4 pcs - Definitely a must order (contains peanuts). My favorite...

    Sometimes the best things are unplanned. One of my best meals in Tokyo was at Afuri Ramen (Harajuku). No guidebooks, no recommendations from friends; simply discovered because we stayed in the area, only to find out after that it's quite 'famous'. We passed by a few nights and there was a long lineup each time – I had to check it out!...